Compare Prices - Ryobi CCD1441 14.4v

Ryobi CCD1441 14.4v Drill Driver

Ryobi CCD1441 14.4v Cordless Drill Driver

Features:
- 10mm keyless chuck
- Variable speed, reverse and brake for complete control.
- Built-in spirit levels for accuracy
- 24 torque settings
- On-board bit storage for added convenience
- 'Soft grip' overmould for improved grip and reduced vibration

Specifications:
Battery - 14.4v (1.3Ah)
Max. torque - 12Nm
Keyless chuck - 10mm
No load speed - 0-650rpm
Max drilling capabilities:
- Wood: 20mm
- Steel: 10mm
Torque settings - 24
Weight - 1.6kg

Excellent examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CP12KB 12v, Bosch GSR12-23 12v, DeWalt DC7442AV 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 6270DWPE3 12v, and the Ryobi CHD1202 12v

In the event that 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more suitable, then be sure to take a peek at the Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v, Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v, DeWalt DC757KA 14.4v, the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v,Makita BHP442RFE14.4v, or the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v

For all your your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers requirements, go ahead and review the
Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch GSR 18v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC920KB 18v Drill Driver, Hitachi DS18DL 18v Drill Driver, the Makita BDF452z 18v Drill Driver or the Ryobi CHP-1802M One+ 18v Drill Driver

Another significant aspect to think about is the amount of voltage a cordless drill driver has as the higher the voltage the more speed and torque the drill might have. The speed and torque of a cordless drill driver might help to determine how easy and speedy the drill is to use. Over the years the amount of voltage that these power appliances have has increased and manufacturers such as Bosch and Hitachi now produce a range of cordless drill drivers including 12v, 14.4v and 18v. What needs to be considered here is that the more voltage the drill has the larger the battery might be thus affecting how heavy the drill might be.

SDS Drills come in two standard sizes and they are SDS Plus (10mm) and SDS-Max (18mm). These sizes relate the size of the shank. SDS Plus is the many common and can withstand a hammer of up to 4Kg, and SDS Max for hammers over 5Kg. SDS Plus grips the drill bit in two places whereas SDS Max grip in three places. With the SDS drill you can use a chuck adaptor that when used enables the use of standard drill bits for rotary drilling. It is wise to avoid SDS Drills that do not have a safety clutch. If the drill bit jams and is unable to turn a safety clutch might stop the drill body from spinning. This spinning can cause severe damage to the wrist and arm with the possibility of the drill being yanked from your hand, jumping out of the hole and coming into contact with a part of the body. A safety clutch may be high on your list of required features.

Drills come in three distinct handle styles. The many popular cordless models have the T-handle style where the handle is placed near the middle. The T-handle style distributes the weight for better balance and less wrist strain. Some people still prefer the more traditional pistol-grip style. The third style is the right-angle version, designed for use where space is restricted.

Accessories for drill drivers include bits for drilling wood, metal, ceramic, glass, and masonry. In addition to bits other accessories include hole saws, screwdriver bits, files, rasps, and sanders.

Depending on the choice of material for the anode, cathode, and electrolyte the voltage, capacity, life, and safety of a lithium ion battery can change dramatically. Lithium ion batteries are not to be confused with lithium batteries, the key difference being that lithium batteries are primary batteries containing metallic lithium while lithium-ion batteries are secondary batteries containing an intercalation anode material. Lithium-ion batteries can be formed into a wide variety of shapes and sizes so as to efficiently fill available space in the tools they power. Li-ion batteries are lighter than other equivalent secondary batteries, often much lighter.

If a Li-ion battery is stored with too low a charge, there is a risk of allowing the charge to drop below the battery's low-voltage threshold, resulting in an unrecoverable dead battery. Once the charge has dropped to this level, recharging it can be dangerous. Some batteries therefore feature an internal safety circuit which might stop charging in this state, and the battery might be for all practical purposes dead. In circumstances where a second Li-ion battery is available for a given device, it is recommended that the unused battery be discharged to 40% and placed in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life. While the battery can be used or charged immediately, some Li-ion batteries might provide more energy when brought to room temperature.

Drilling a hole isn't rocket science but it can be quite frustrating should you don't know how to do it. For example, should you try to use a wood auger bit to drill a hole in metal you'll ruin the bit, score the metal and possibly injure yourself in the process. Drilling a hole correctly, however, is something you can easily accomplish with a little practice.

A drill without a drill bit is useless. A drill bit is the piece at the end of the drill that does the actual drilling. Drill bits come in a wide variety of sizes (diameter) and length. First you have to insert the bit into the drill. The end of the drill’s barrel has an opening. Insert the dull end of the drill bit into this hole. Now you have to tighten the drill bit into this hole so the bit is secure and does not come free. This is accomplished in one of two ways. The many traditional way is to use a chuck key. The chuck key is a small piece of petal shaped in a right angle. One piece of the key fits into the tightening collar around the bit. There is a hole there for that purpose. Then you simply turn the key clockwise tightening the collar over the bit. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the collar and free the bit. When you do this make certain the drill is unplugged from its power source. This is a safety precaution. The second way does not include a chuck key. Instead there are usually two tightening collars. The bit is inserted in the outer most collar. Grasp this collar with one hand holding it steady. With a small bit of power provided by squeezing the trigger the loose collar spins freely and tightens the bit into the collar. If you want to tighten the bit the collar must spin clockwise. If you want to loosen the bit the collar must turn counter-clockwise. The direction of the collar’s spin is determined by moving a switch on the drill usually located near the trigger. Now your drill is ready to go. You now have the correct bit size and it is securely settled into the drill. You are ready to drill. First make certain the bit is the appropriate material for the material you are drilling. Select a bit designed for metal should you are drilling through metal and select a bit designed for wood when drilling through wood. Using the incorrect bit might damage the bit and perhaps not accomplish the task. Using a wood bit on metal often does not penetrate the metal. When you have marked on the material to be drilled where you want the hole mark it with a pencil or marker with a dot or ‘x’. Place the drill bit exactly on the mark, squeeze the drill trigger and give just the slightest push to the drill. Let the drill do the work. Be patient and don’t force the drill bit through the hole. Try to keep the drill as perpendicular to the material as possible.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink bits are used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These bits tend to be designed for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results might be obtained should the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they can be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening can be difficult, but can be undertaken with a fine triangular file. Tile bits are those bits used for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They can be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) may be used to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit should it is used at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge can be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the plug and unplug it before trying to find out why. If the fault can't be found or you are uncertain how to find the fault, get expert advice. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on.
Wear protective clothing including safety goggles, gloves and dust mask when working with potentially hazardous materials such as glass or spray paint. It is also advisable to wear a mask when working in a dusty environment e.g. sawing wood or MDF.

Always keep a chemical fire extinguisher in the house. Never use water to put out a fire in an electrical appliance. Gas and electrical work is best left to a registered professional.

RCD's (Residual Current Devices) can respond to changes in the flow of electric current. For example, when a flex or cable is cut or an electric tool malfunctions, and direct contact is made with a mains supply conductor and earth, the RCD automatically disconnecting the power supply to the equipment to reduce the risk of you being electrocuted. RCD's are available as portable adaptors, can be incorporated in plug outlets, as separate stand alone units for fixed wiring installations offering whole house protection or as modular units for use in household consumer units. However, although RCD's are a vital safety aid, they cannot guarantee 100% protection. Even with them in your home, isn't it better to make a long term investment in good safety practice by looking after appliances such as hedge cutters, hedge trimmers, chainsaws, drill drivers and sanders.

If you have any doubts whatsoever about how to safely use any material, or equipment, ask the manufacturer or supplier.

Cordless Drill Drivers