Compare Prices - Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v

Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v Drill Driver

Hitachi DS14DVF3 Drill Driver 14.4vcomprising a tool for the hardcore DIY enthusiast or professional user. Complete with 3 x 1.4Ah batteries and a 30 minute charger, you should have no reason for not being able to complete any task.

Drill Driver Features:

* Soft Grip Handle.
* Improved cooling efficiency gives greater overload durability.
* Maximum torque 34Nm giving a 13% increase on previous model.
* Electric brake.
* 22 stage torque adjustable settings.
* Five position belt hook with integral bit holder.
* Chuck capacity: 10mm
* Three 1.4Ah low profile batteries.

Box Contents
# Drill
# Kit box
# 3 x batteries
# 30 minute charger

Superb examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CD12CA 12v, Bosch PSR 12v, DeWalt DC740KA 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 312DWDE3 12v, as well the Ryobi CHD1201 12v

If 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more suitable, then be sure to review the Black & Decker Lithium Ion 14.4v, Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v, DeWalt DC728KA 14.4v[/LINK], the Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v,Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v, and the Ryobi CHD-1441 14.4v

To adapt to your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers requirements, go take a look at the
Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR 18v, DeWalt DC920KB 18v, Hitachi DS18DL 18v, the Makita 6390DWPE3 18v or the Ryobi CHP-1802M One+ 18v

14.4v Drill Drivers - Safety Tips

Cordless drill drivers are much safer than corded or electric power tools as there is no power lead for you to trip or fall over. Cordless power tools are much more accessible than corded tools as they allow you go anywhere and work in places that would ordinarily be inaccessible due to there being no power socket. Cordless drill drivers are becoming increasingly small and compact in design and are extremely easy to move around and transport. However, the size and weight of a cordless drill driver may vary depending on the battery type. Technological developments have allowed power tool manufacturers to produce cordless drill drivers that have the same voltage and power capacity as electric corded drill drivers.

Electric rotary drill drivers are made mainly for drilling metal and wood. This type of drill is normally small and compact. Motor sizes range from around 500 watts. The lower wattage motors are ok for drilling small holes or minimal use, the more powerful motored machines might cope with larger size holes and more frequent use. The chuck size is another thing to check, the smaller drill drivers have a chuck which might only accept drill bits up to 10mm diameter the larger chuck size is 13mm.

Any tool may feel like an extension of your hand. The tool may feel great while standing in the store aisle but try to imagine what it might feel like after a few hours of use. While in the shop make sure all controls are convenient, and check to see if the forward/reverse and high/low speed switches in particular are easy to use.

The chuck is the attachment where the bit is inserted, having jaws that grip the bit. Drills come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. This measurement is the chuck size and indicates the shaft diameter of the drill bits and accessories that might fit the drill. Chucks can be keyed (the jaws are tightened or loosened with a key) or keyless (the chuck can be tightened or loosened by hand). Keyless chucks offer two major benefits. If you have ever misplaced or lost a chuck key, you already know one of them. A keyless chuck might also allow drill bits to be changed more quickly. A real plus when you need to change from a drill bit to a screwdriver bit repeatedly or should you happen to be wearing gloves on the job. You can change the chuck in some keyless models with only one hand because the shaft locks when the trigger is off. In many models, however, you have to use both hands to turn the chuck in opposite directions. While you're in the shop change the bit on different drill drivers to see what style of keyless chuck you prefer.

Depending on the choice of material for the anode, cathode, and electrolyte the voltage, capacity, life, and safety of a lithium ion battery can change dramatically. Lithium ion batteries are not to be confused with lithium batteries, the key difference being that lithium batteries are primary batteries containing metallic lithium while lithium-ion batteries are secondary batteries containing an intercalation anode material. Lithium-ion batteries can be formed into a wide variety of shapes and sizes so as to efficiently fill available space in the appliances they power. Li-ion batteries are lighter than other equivalent secondary batteries, often much lighter.

Unlike Ni-Cd batteries, lithium-ion batteries may be charged early and often. However, should they are not used for a long time, they may be brought to a charge level of around 40% - 60%. Li-ion batteries may be kept cool. Ideally they are stored in a refrigerator. Aging might take its toll much faster at high temperatures. The high temperatures found in cars cause lithium-ion batteries to degrade rapidly. Storing a Li-ion battery at the correct temperature and charge makes all the difference in maintaining its storage capacity. It is significantly beneficial to avoid storing a lithium-ion battery at full charge. A Li-ion battery stored at 40% charge might last many times longer than one stored at 100% charge, particularly at higher temperatures.

For many applications around the house a small set of common twist drill bits might normally serve your needs. You'll also need a drill to turn the drill bits and some tools to measure and mark where you want the hole. This includes a ruler or tape measure, a pencil or scribe and should working with metal, a centre punch and a hammer. The first and most important step is marking where you want the hole. You can also use a scribe on wood or plastic. Sometimes even a pencil might work well. As long as you can see your marks and they don't rub off when working your material it doesn't normally matter. Without a punch mark, the bit would drift around. If it did eventually catch, it would quite likely be in the incorrect location.

A drill without a drill bit is useless. A drill bit is the piece at the end of the drill that does the actual drilling. Drill bits come in a wide variety of sizes (diameter) and length. First you have to insert the bit into the drill. The end of the drill’s barrel has an opening. Insert the dull end of the drill bit into this hole. Now you have to tighten the drill bit into this hole so the bit is secure and does not come free. This is accomplished in one of two ways. The many traditional way is to use a chuck key. The chuck key is a small piece of petal shaped in a right angle. One piece of the key fits into the tightening collar around the bit. There is a hole there for that purpose. Then you simply turn the key clockwise tightening the collar over the bit. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the collar and free the bit. When you do this make certain the drill is unplugged from its power source. This is a safety precaution. The second way does not include a chuck key. Instead there are usually two tightening collars. The bit is inserted in the outer most collar. Grasp this collar with one hand holding it steady. With a small bit of power provided by squeezing the trigger the loose collar spins freely and tightens the bit into the collar. If you want to tighten the bit the collar must spin clockwise. If you want to loosen the bit the collar must turn counter-clockwise. The direction of the collar’s spin is determined by moving a switch on the drill usually located close to the trigger. Now your drill is ready to go. You now have the correct bit size and it is securely settled into the drill. You are ready to drill. First make certain the bit is the suitable material for the material you are drilling. Select a bit made for metal should you are drilling through metal and select a bit made for wood when drilling through wood. Using the incorrect bit might damage the bit and perhaps not accomplish the task. Using a wood bit on metal often does not penetrate the metal. When you have marked on the material to be drilled where you want the hole mark it with a pencil or marker with a dot or ‘x’. Place the drill bit exactly on the mark, squeeze the drill trigger and give just the slightest push to the drill. Let the drill do the work. Be patient and don’t force the drill bit through the hole. Try to keep the drill as perpendicular to the material as possible.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink drill bits are used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These drill bits tend to be made for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results might be obtained should the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they can be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening can be difficult, but can be done with a fine triangular file. Tile drill bits are those drill bits used for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They can be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) may be used to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit should it is used at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge can be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

Keep water away from anything electric. Don't even wash walls without turning off the power at the mains switch. Never be tempted to use a socket, plug or equipment which could still have water in or on it - allowing it to dry could mean the difference between life and death. Read manufacturer's instructions on extension cables - they could overheat should left coiled. Check an extension is suitable for the appliance it is connected to.
When painting, or using any material that generates toxic fumes or dust, keep the room well ventilated. Never smoke while painting or standing close to a freshly painted area.

Don't wait until disaster strikes to find your stop-cocks and gate valves. Opening and closing them four times a year might ensure they easily work when you need them to. Don't let a blown fuse leave you in the dark: keep a repair kit close to your mains fuse box, with a torch - check the batteries regularly - screwdrivers, spare fuses, bulbs and fuse wire, rubber gloves and insulated pliers, a trimming knife and insulating tape.

Take extra care with old paint. Some old paint could give off harmful dust and pose a poisoning hazard should ingested by small children. You must not burn off old paint or rub it down with dry sandpaper or a power sander; you may clean up properly, using a high efficiency industrial vacuum cleaner with heavy duty filters. Have a basic First Aid kit accessible.

If you have any doubts whatsoever about how to safely use any material, or equipment, ask the manufacturer or supplier.

Cordless Drill Drivers