Compare Prices - Bosch PSR18VE-2 18v

Bosch PSR18VE-2 18v Drill Driver

Bosch Psr 18 Ve-2 18v Cordless Drill Driver

Three function digital display Drill Driver which lets you know when battery needs recharging, alerts you if the drill is overheating and helps users to select the optimum speed and torque!

Features:
- High-torque 42 mm motor
- Powerful 18 V
- Bosch Electronic
- Bosch Auto Lock
- High-performance 3 planetary gears (2-speed)
- Run-out brake
- Switch-on lock
- Aero Softgrip
- Slim, ergonomic centre grip for optimum centre of gravity

Specifications:
No-load speed, 1st gear: 0 /- 400 1 /min
No-load speed, 2nd gear: 0 /- 1.250 1 /min
Torque setting range, min. / max: 0 /- 42 Nm
Drill spindle thread: 3 /8"
Battery voltage: 18v 1.5ah
Weight including battery, approx.: 1.75 kg
Wood: 30,00 mm
Steel: 13,00 mm
Max. screw diameter: 8 mm

Typical examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CP12KB 12v, Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v, DeWalt DC772KLV 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 6319DWDE3 12v, plus the Ryobi CHD1201 12v

If 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more ideal, then be sure to review the Black & Decker Lithium Ion 14.4v, Bosch PSR 14.4v, DeWalt DC728KA 14.4v[/LINK], the Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v,Makita 6280DZ 14.4v, and the Ryobi CHD-1441 14.4v

To cover your your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers longings, compare prices of the
Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR 18v, DeWalt DC920KB 18v, Hitachi DS18DL 18v, the Makita BDF451RFE 18v or the Ryobi CHP-1802 18v

How to be DIY Aware

The depth of cordless drill drivers is now massive, and all mains powered drills have their cordless battery equivalents. 9.6 volt to 14.4 volt drill/drivers can be utilized as a rotary drill or screwdriver. 12 volt to 18 volt cordless drill drivers can also have a hammer action. 12 and 14.4 volt machines are ok on hammer action for brick but would struggle drilling concrete and other hard masonry, if you need the drill to do this type of work then you may look at the 18 volt models that are available. Then there are the 18 volt to 36 volt SDS type of drills. These are designed for masonry work, and with a chuck adaptor these can be turned into rotary drill drivers. Also with the SDS type of cordless drill you can get some of them with roto stop which then turns them into a demolition hammer drill.

The Angle Drill is designed for use in tight areas. Their main feature is the angled neck. Unlike a conventional drill, an Angle Drills profile allows the drill to be utilized at arms length and in areas where the body of a drill would not allow it access. While they may not be able to deliver the power and torque of a conventional drill they are incredibly handy tools, especially around the home. An example would be drilling a hole on the inside of a drawer to mount a handle, positioning a normal drill could be awkward but the body of an Angle Drill would rise out of the drawer leaving plenty of space for the operators hand.

Before cordless drill drivers arrived, many drills had pistol grips, where the handle is behind the motor like the handle of a gun. But many of today's cordless models are equipped with a T-handle: The handle base flares to prevent hand slippage and accommodate a battery. Because the battery is centered under the weight and bulk of the motor, a T-handle provides better overall balance, particularly in heavier drills. Also, T-handle drills can often get into tighter spaces because your hand is out of the way in the centre of the drill. But for heavy-duty drilling and driving large screws, a pistol grip does let you apply pressure higher up — almost directly behind the bit — allowing you to put more pressure on the work.

The chuck is the attachment where the bit is inserted, having jaws that grip the bit. Drills come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. This measurement is the chuck size and indicates the shaft diameter of the drill bits and accessories that may fit the drill. Chucks can be keyed (the jaws are tightened or loosened with a key) or keyless (the chuck can be tightened or loosened by hand). Keyless chucks offer two major benefits. If you have ever misplaced or lost a chuck key, you already know one of them. A keyless chuck may also allow drill bits to be changed more quickly. A real plus when you need to change from a drill bit to a screwdriver bit repeatedly or if you happen to be wearing gloves on the job. You can change the chuck in some keyless models with only one hand because the shaft locks when the trigger is off. In many models, however, you have to use both hands to turn the chuck in opposite directions. While you're in the store change the bit on different drill drivers to see what style of keyless chuck you prefer.

All cordless drill drivers come with a battery charger, with recharge times ranging from 15 minutes to three hours. But faster isn't necessarily better. A contractor might depend on fast recharges, but slower recharging isn't usually a concern at home, especially if you have two batteries. What's more, there are drawbacks to fast charging. A fast recharge can damage a battery by generating excessive heat, unless it's a specially designed unit. If you want a speedy recharge, go with a tool from Makita, Hitachi or Panasonic, whose "smart" chargers are equipped with temperature sensors and feedback circuitry that protect batteries. These units provide a charge in as little as nine minutes without battery damage.

Check out drill drivers in DIY centres noting their weight and balance. Try out vertical and horizontal drilling positions to see how comfortable you feel. Contoured grips and rubber cushioning on some models make them very comfortable, even when you're applying direct palm pressure. While you're at it, see how easy it is to change clutch settings and operate the keyless chuck.

When drilling deep or large holes, it is best to drill a small pilot hole first. This is very helpful when drilling deep holes because it's sometimes easier to keep the hole straight with a smaller bit. A larger bit may then normally follow the pilot hole. When drilling larger holes, especially in metal, the pilot hole opens an area in the metal to accommodate the tip of the larger bit so the cutting surfaces can more easily reach the uncut metal. Once you've drilled your hole, you'll probably find a burr on the back surface of your material. This can be removed by lightly drilling the back side of the hole with a larger bit. If the material is thin, such as sheet metal, instead of a burr you may find the material is actually distorted leaving a ragged hole. This be prevented by sandwiching the material between two pieces of wood before you drill the hole. As with all tools, exercise caution, wear safety equipment and learn to use the tools properly.

To drill a satisfactory hole in any material, the correct type of drill bit must be utilized; it must be utilized correctly and be sharpened as appropriate. Many jobs around the house require a hole of some kind to be drilled - whether it is putting up a shelf, building a cabinet or hanging a light fitting. For basic requirements, a set of high-speed steel twist drill bits and some masonry drill bits may probably be sufficient for the average handyman. But for more sophisticated jobs/material, others drill bits may be required - perhaps larger, or designed for a specific material/purpose. Good quality drill bits can be expensive, so take care of them, keep them in a case or box if possible, rather than allowing them to roll around loose in a toolbox where the cutting edges may be damaged.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink drill bits are utilized in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These drill bits tend to be designed for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When utilized with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results may be obtained if the countersink bit is utilized before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they can be utilized by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening can be difficult, but can be done with a fine triangular file. Tile drill bits are those drill bits utilized for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They can be utilized with a hand drill, but are best utilized in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) may be utilized to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit if it is utilized at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge can be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

Never overload a socket with too a lot of plugs or adaptors. Don't allow cables and flexes to become kinked or frayed. Make sure plugs are undamaged and tightly closed with no loose connections and that cord grips are tightened. Make Sure plugs are correctly fused. Fuses protect cables and flexes from the effects of overheating caused by short circuits and overload.
Store tools in a safe place, out of the way of children and pets. Keep them in a box or a rack. When using knives, always cut away from you. Use a baton as a guide and run a sharp knife along the edge of it. Always store knives securely.

Keep your head: if any of your tools has a loose head or handle, replace the whole tool or have it repaired by a professional. Keep a tool box tidy for easy access and always use the cover guards which come with tools such as saws, knives and chisel blades. Buy equipment and household appliances which are made to a British or European standard or carry an approved product quality and safety mark. There may be a label on the product.

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert advice. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights. If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the socket and unplug it before trying to find out why. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on. If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is hazardous.

Be sure to double check the safety and condition of any working platform. Make sure that it can not move or give way. Never use ladders on top of working platforms.

Cordless Drill Drivers