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Black & Decker Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver

Black & Decker Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver

The Black & Decker Li-Ion 14.4v Drill Driver is a tough, powerful and yet small drill driver featuring lithium ion batteries designed to increase longevity for those jobs that take a little extra time.


Specifications

* 2 gears.

* Speed 0-1400rpm.

* Torque 23Nm.

* Lithium Ion technology, integral battery.

* 20 percent lighter.

* 80 percent more powerful.

* 50 percent less self discharge

* Stays powered three times longer.

* State of charge indicator.

* 3 hour charger.

* Single sleeve metal chuck.

* Docking station.

* Includes 15 accessories.

More Voltage Options

Typical examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CP12KB 12v, Bosch GSR12-2 12v, DeWalt DC772KLV 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 312DWDE3 12v, and the Ryobi CHD1201 12v

In Case 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more ideal, then be sure to peruse the Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v, Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v, DeWalt DC728KA 14.4v, the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v,Makita 6339DWDE3 14.4v, and the Ryobi CHD-1441 14.4v

To adapt to your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers longings, go take a look at the
Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v, DeWalt DC729KA 18v, Hitachi DS18DL 18v, the Makita BDF451RFE 18v or the Ryobi CCD-181M One+ 18v


Drill Safety Tips

A further vital thing to consider is the amount of voltage a cordless drill driver has as the higher the voltage the more speed and torque the drill will have. The speed and torque of a cordless drill driver will help to determine how easy and quick the drill is to use. Over the years the amount of voltage that these power tools have has increased and manufacturers such as Bosch and Hitachi now produce a range of cordless drill drivers including 12v, 14.4v and 18v. What needs to be considered here is that the more voltage the drill has the larger the battery will be thus affecting how heavy the drill will be.

An Angle Drill is designed for use in tight areas. Their main feature is the angled neck. Unlike a conventional drill, an Angle Drills profile allows the drill to be used at arms length and in areas where the body of a drill would not allow it access. While they may not be able to deliver the power and torque of a conventional drill they are incredibly handy tools, especially around the home. An example would be drilling a hole on the inside of a drawer to mount a handle, positioning a normal drill could be awkward but the body of an Angle Drill would rise out of the drawer leaving plenty of space for the operators hand.

Before cordless drill drivers arrived, most drills had pistol grips, where the handle is behind the motor like the handle of a gun. But most of today's cordless models are equipped with a T-handle: The handle base flares to prevent hand slippage and accommodate a battery. Because the battery is centered under the weight and bulk of the motor, a T-handle provides better overall balance, particularly in heavier drills. Also, T-handle drills can often get into tighter spaces because your hand is out of the way in the centre of the drill. But for heavy-duty drilling and driving large screws, a pistol grip does let you apply pressure higher up — almost directly behind the bit — allowing you to put more force on the work.

The chuck is the attachment where the bit is inserted, having jaws that grip the bit. Drills come in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" sizes. This measurement is the chuck size and indicates the shaft diameter of the drill bits and accessories that will fit the drill. Chucks can be keyed (the jaws are tightened or loosened with a key) or keyless (the chuck can be tightened or loosened by hand). Keyless chucks offer two major benefits. If you have ever misplaced or lost a chuck key, you already know one of them. A keyless chuck will also allow drill bits to be changed more quickly. A real plus when you need to change from a drill bit to a screwdriver bit repeatedly or if you happen to be wearing gloves on the job. You can change the chuck in some keyless models with only one hand because the shaft locks when the trigger is off. In most models, however, you have to use both hands to turn the chuck in opposite directions. While you're in the store change the bit on different drill drivers to see what style of keyless chuck you prefer.

Lithium ion batteries are commonly used in consumer electronics and tools such as drill drivers. They are currently one of the most popular types of battery for portable electronics, with one of the best energy-to-weight ratios, no memory effect, and a slow loss of charge when not in use. In addition to uses for consumer electronics, lithium-ion batteries are growing in popularity for defence, automotive, and aerospace applications due to their high energy density. However certain kinds of mistreatment may cause Li-ion batteries to explode.

If a Li-ion battery is stored with too low a charge, there is a risk of allowing the charge to drop below the battery's low-voltage threshold, resulting in an unrecoverable dead battery. Once the charge has dropped to this level, recharging it can be hazardous. Some batteries therefore feature an internal safety circuit which will prevent charging in this state, and the battery will be for all practical purposes dead. In circumstances where a second Li-ion battery is available for a given device, it is recommended that the unused battery be discharged to 40% and placed in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life. While the battery can be used or charged immediately, some Li-ion batteries will provide more energy when brought to room temperature.

For most applications around the house a small set of common twist drill bits will normally serve your needs. You'll also need a drill to turn the drill bits and some tools to measure and mark where you want the hole. This includes a ruler or tape measure, a pencil or scribe and if working with metal, a centre punch and a hammer. The first and most important step is marking where you want the hole. You can also use a scribe on wood or plastic. Sometimes even a pencil will work well. As long as you can see your marks and they don't rub off when working your material it doesn't normally matter. Without a punch mark, the bit would drift around. If it did eventually catch, it would quite likely be in the incorrect location.

A drill without a drill bit is useless. A drill bit is the piece at the end of the drill that does the actual drilling. Drill bits come in a wide variety of sizes (diameter) and length. First you have to insert the bit into the drill. The end of the drill’s barrel has an opening. Insert the dull end of the drill bit into this hole. Now you have to tighten the drill bit into this hole so the bit is secure and does not come free. This is accomplished in one of two ways. The most traditional way is to use a chuck key. The chuck key is a small piece of petal shaped in a right angle. One piece of the key fits into the tightening collar around the bit. There is a hole there for that purpose. Then you simply turn the key clockwise tightening the collar over the bit. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the collar and free the bit. When you do this make certain the drill is unplugged from its power source. This is a safety precaution. The second way does not include a chuck key. Instead there are usually two tightening collars. The bit is inserted in the outer most collar. Grasp this collar with one hand holding it steady. With a small bit of power provided by squeezing the trigger the loose collar spins freely and tightens the bit into the collar. If you want to tighten the bit the collar must spin clockwise. If you want to loosen the bit the collar must turn counter-clockwise. The direction of the collar’s spin is determined by moving a switch on the drill usually located close to the trigger. Now your drill is ready to go. You now have the correct bit size and it is securely settled into the drill. You are ready to drill. First make certain the bit is the appropriate material for the material you are drilling. Select a bit designed for metal if you are drilling through metal and select a bit designed for wood when drilling through wood. Using the incorrect bit will damage the bit and perhaps not accomplish the task. Using a wood bit on metal often does not penetrate the metal. When you have marked on the material to be drilled where you want the hole mark it with a pencil or marker with a dot or ‘x’. Place the drill bit exactly on the mark, squeeze the drill trigger and give just the slightest push to the drill. Let the drill do the work. Be patient and don’t force the drill bit through the hole. Try to keep the drill as perpendicular to the material as possible.

Used for cutting large, fixed, diameter holes in wood or plastic a hole saw will usually cut up to a depth of 18mm though deeper versions are available. Best used in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws its way through the material. Sharpening could be done with a fine triangular file - as for an ordinary saw. Like the Hole Saw above, combination saws can cut large holes but they consist of a number of different sized round saw blades, usually ranging from about 25 to 62mm in diameter. Normally the blade are secures by a radial screw in the 'head' with all blades other than the desired sized being removed before the screw is inserted to secure the required diameter blade. Best used in a power drill at low speed as the blade saws it's way through the material. Sharpening could be done with a fine triangular file and 'setter' as for an ordinary saw. Forstner drill bits are used to form holes with a flat bottom, such as for kitchen cupboard hinges. Best used in a power drill held in a drill stand as there's little in the way of a central point. If used freehand, the positioning is difficult to control as there is no central pilot bit. Sharpening of the bit could be done on an oilstone or with a fine file. A Wood Auger bit is ideal when drilling large-diameter, deep holes in wood or thick man-made boards. Generally an Auger bit could only be used in a hand brace. The bit will cut a clean and deep, flat bottomed holes. The single spur cuts and defines the edge of the hole while the chisel-like cutting edge removes the waste within the previously cut circle. The threaded centre bites into the wood and pulls the bit into the timber. This 'pulling' action means that the bit is really unsuitable for use in a power drill.

DIY Safety tips:

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert help. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights.
When fixing or checking electrical appliances or connections, always switch off the power and remove the fuse or circuit breaker (MCB). If you're fixing an electrical appliance, switch off the appliance at the plug and pull out the plug. Wear rubber-soled shoes when working on electrics. Cover electrical switches which are broken. Switch off at the mains and remove the fuse to that line, and keep it with you, so even if the power is switched on accidentally the line will stay dead and not you, while you carry out a job. The tapes are a reminder for you and a warning to others. Call in professional help if you do not know what you are doing.

Keep your head: if any of your tools has a loose head or handle, replace the whole tool or have it repaired by a professional. Keep a tool box tidy for easy access and always use the cover guards which come with tools such as saws, knives and chisel blades. Buy equipment and household appliances which are made to a British or European standard or carry an approved product quality and safety mark. There will be a label on the product.

Do not work with electricity in damp or wet conditions. If you MUST, always use an RCD. Always place the cable of a hedge trimmer or mower over your shoulder and keep it behind you at all times.

When working in the vacinity of electrical items or cables, make sure the electricity supply is off and the fuse removed . Be sure that others cannot inadvertently re connect the supply.


Cordless Drill Drivers

Black & Decker CD12CA 12v | Black & Decker CP12KB 12v | Bosch GSR12-2 12v | Bosch GSR12-23 12v | Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v | Bosch PSR 12v | DeWalt DC727KA 12v | DeWalt DC740KA 12v | DeWalt DC742KAV 12v | DeWalt DC722KLV 12v | DeWalt DW907K2V 12v | DeWalt DW965K 12v | Hitachi 12DVF3 12v | Makita 6319DWDE3 12v | Makita DA312DWDE3 12v | Ryobi CHD1201 12v | Ryobi CHD1202 12v | Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v | Black & Decker CP142KB 14.4v | Black & Decker Lithium Ion 14.4v | Black & Decker PS142KB 14.4v  | Bosch GSR Tough 14.4v | Bosch PSR14Li-2 Lithium Ion 14.4v  | Bosch PSR 14.4v  | DeWalt DC728KA 14.4v | DeWalt DC731KA 14.4v | DeWalt DC731KBV 14.4v  | DeWalt DC757KA 14.4v  | DeWalt DC757KA 14.4v | DeWalt DC757KB 14.4v | Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v  | Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v | Hitachi DS14DVF3/JE 14.4v  | Makita 6280DWPE3 14.4v | Makita 6280DZ 14.4v  | Makita 6337DWDE3 14.4v  | Makita 6339DWDE3 14.4v | Makita BDF441RFE 14.4v | Makita BDF442RFE 14.4v | Makita BDF442RFE 14.4v  | Makita BHP441RFE 14.4v | Makita BHP442RFE14.4v | Makita BHP442z 14.4v | Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v | Ryobi CHD-1441 14.4v  | Ryobi CHD-1442 14.4v | Black & Decker CD18CA 18v  | Bosch GSR 18v  | Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v | Bosch PSR 18v | Bosch PSR18VE-2 18v | DeWalt DC729KA 18v | DeWalt DC759KB 18v | DeWalt DC920KB 18v | Hitachi DS18DFL 18v | Hitachi DS18DL 18v  | Hitachi DS18DMR 18v | Makita 6390DWPE3 18v | Makita 6390DZ 18v | Makita BDF451RFE 18v | Makita BDF452RFE 18v | Makita BDF452z 18v | Ryobi CCD-181M One+ 18v | Ryobi CHD-1801M One+ 18v | Ryobi CHP-1802 18v | Ryobi CHP-1802M One+ 18v

 
February 9, 2010
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